Since Baume & Mercier was founded in the heart of the Swiss Jura in 1830, it has continued to expand into new markets around the globe, and travel has become an essential part of its history. That is why it was a natural choice to add a Dual Time watch to the Clifton collection: a watch that functions in such a way as to enable the simultaneous display of two different time zones on its dial. This efficient, understated piece fulfills the needs of metropolitans who travel for professional or personal reasons and who wish to check the time at home, as well as the time where they are, at a glance.

The art of travel makes up part of the historic heritage of Baume & Mercier, as the Swiss watchmaker understood the importance of taking its influence beyond the boundaries of Europe as early as the 19th century.

Aware of the potential that the new territories represented, the company, formerly known as Frères Baume, established a branch in London as early as 1851 under the name Baume Brothers. The company’s activity, which had its beginnings with a focus on the Swiss Geneva area and the British Empire, would reach North America when a subsidiary was opened in Philadelphia in 1876. A vast network then formed, encompassing India, Africa and even Australia, New Zealand, Singapore and Burma.

By the end of the 19^th century, the brand had acquired a solid international reputation, and received a number of awards and gold medals for its polished timepieces at exhibits and international fairs in Paris, Melbourne, Zurich, Amsterdam, London, Chicago, and elsewhere.  With their precision and fine crafting, Baume watches beat records and won competitions in the field of chronometry, including those organized by the Kew Observatory near London. London played an essential role in establishing the global time standard: the Royal Observatory is found there, and the original meridian that was used to determine mean solar time, known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT)*, runs through it.

Clifton GMT, both elegant and timeless

Baume & Mercier pays homage to this great past with two GMT watches that complete the Clifton men’s collection. These elegant, timeless watches are a demonstration of Baume & Mercier’s ambition to provide travelers with useful functionalities. These luxury timepieces both feature a 43 mm diameter case in brushed satin-finish steel with the date display in the three o’clock position, available with a silvery dial or anthracite dial with sun satin finish.

These models contain an automatic mechanical movement known for its reliability and precision:  ETA 2893-2. With the Dual Time function, it enables the watch to simultaneously display a second time zone, indicated by the red dot at the end of a fine hand that goes around the dial once every 24 hours. This marvel of balance is understated, simple to handle, and useful for everyday use. It is mounted on a black or maroon bracelet fastened by an adjustable triple folding buckle with security catch.

* Since January 1, 1972, Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) has been replaced by Coordinated Universal Time  (UTC), the time standard defined by the combination of a multitude of atomic clocks located all over the world.

Clifton GMT (ref 10111) 

The elegant new Clifton GMT model 10111 is a traveler. It was designed for men who regularly roam the planet and who wish to check the time at home, as well as the time where they are. This watch comes in a 43 mm diameter case in brushed satin-finish steel with a shape inspired by that a 1950s Baume & Mercier watch. It contains an automatic mechanical movement visible through the sapphire case back (ETA 2893-2). The slate dial with a sun satin finish is illuminated by a set of golden hands, and shows the date in an open display in the three o’clock position. In addition to the local time, a second time zone is indicated by a fine hand that goes around the dial once every 24 hours. This metropolitan, timeless piece is mounted on a maroon alligator skin bracelet fastened by an adjustable triple folding buckle with security catch.

Clifton GMT (ref 10112) 

The understated new Clifton GMT model 10112 has a silvery dial with sun satin finish on its 43 mm diameter case in brushed satin finish steel. It contains an automatic mechanical movement visible through the sapphire case back (ETA 2893-2) enabling the simultaneous display of a second time zone. With the additional feature of a date display in the three o’clock position, this Clifton model is mounted on a black alligator skin bracelet fastened by an adjustable triple folding buckle with security catch.

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This year Patek Philippe has done an even better and this time for a good cause. Such extraordinary steps are taken once every two years.

This is probably the last watch of its breed and the last cased 5004 (which was replaced by the 5204 at Basel in 2012). To celebrate an important biennial Event and a good cause, the watch was cased in a Titanium case. This is the third known Titanium Patek (the other two were a 5000T and a 5712T) and the only 5004 ever made in that metal. It will be sold at The Only Watch Auction by Antiquorum in Monaco on September 28, 2013 to benefit the AMM, a Monaco based Non profit organization which aims at promoting and accelerating the scientific and medical research to find treatments as fast as possible in order to slow down and eventually heal Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The 5004T has a solid gold dial plate, black with hand-guilloché carbon pattern, gold applied numerals, I have never seen that pattern on any other Patek. Also notice that the bicompax subdials are in silver in contrast to the black carbon dial. Even the calf leather strap is embossed with a carbon pattern, red hand stitching. Now, lets look at the hands; with a white hand and a red split second hand, probably another unique feature to this 5004. Titanium prong buckle. Interchangeable titanium full back and sapphire crystal case back. Is it enough for another record?

The last Patek sold at Only Watch 2011 caused a sensation and was sold for nearly US$2 millions. Most probably the sportiest of all Patek perpetual chronograph ever made, sold in a city with a legendary racing track at an important watch auction, combined this with a unique case and dial and you are most probably looking at a very expensive watch, so pull out your checkbook and remember that it is for a good cause.

Story by TimeZone.com

A previous Titanium watch by Patek Philippe Ref. 6000T

Another Titanium timepiece by Patek Philippe 5180T

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Monopusher chronograph striking on cathedral gong, constant force mechanism and fully integrated automatic movemen

Kantharos: a name carrying echoes of a bygone era, yet clearly ready to conquer the modern world. Its Greek-sounding origins endow it with instant mythical status. A stellar performer in the equestrian world, Kantharos, son of the renowned Coeur de Lion, is a thoroughbred with an outstanding track record. Kantharos is now destined to show the same energy in making its entrance onto the watchmaking scene. A king among chronographs and a force of nature, Kantharos features a constant-force escapement that ensures supreme precision. The automatic-winding chronograph’s cathedral gong audibly chimes with each change of function – a concept invented and developed by Christophe Claret.

Elementary: the starting and stopping of the chronograph is heard before the time is read off on the wrist. Christophe Claret started with a simple premise: athletes launch out of starting blocks when the gun is fired; boxers begin and stop their fights when a gong is struck; horses burst out of the stalls when the starter gives the signal. So it is logical to hear exactly when the chronograph starts and stops timing. Kantharos enriches the world of short-time measurements with an ingenious striking system triggered by each change of mode (start, stop, reset).

The concept is entirely in line with Christophe Claret, which has repeatedly distinguished itself with innovative striking mechanisms featuring cathedral gongs. The latter, the acknowledged king of chimes, is visible at 10 o’clock and equipped with a patented system that avoids the gongs vibrating against each other. The chronograph delivers peerless and reliable performance. Its clutch disk system, inspired by car gearboxes, prevents the hand from jumping when the chronograph starts to enhance precision. This useful, functional and entertaining chronograph plays on the sensorial – acoustic and tactile – interaction between the instrument and its owner.

In addition to this innovative complication, Kantharos is also equipped with a constant-force escapement. Majestically enthroned on the dial side at 6 o’clock, this clever mechanism is a key component that considerably reduces timing variations. The energy delivered to the escapement remains constant from beginning to end of the power reserve. Precision is the overriding goal. The perpetually moving mechanism exercises a hypnotic visual effect, which may be admired beneath a meticulously chamfered sapphire bridge revealing the full extent of the master-watchmaker’s know-how.

This technical perfection is matched by architectural balance: Kantharos leaves nothing to chance. Its layered dial skillfully plays on depth and transparency, accentuating the visual field, while catching and holding light. Designed like an amphitheater in which the actors display their remarkable skills. The titanium and ruby red indicators are enhanced with Super-LumiNova, while the chronograph seconds hand is a vivid red. Despite their strong personality, the numerals and hour-markers are relatively discreet so as not to clutter the dial. With chronograph counters on either side, the constant-force device appears to be at dial level – an impressive structural achievement in itself. The distinctive nature of the counters, inspired by aircraft instrument panels, is further enriched by an original disk display system. One sapphire disk carries the numerals, while a second black and white disk positioned below features a red indicator. Each is rimmed with a graduated step, giving the display a pleasing sense of dimensionality. Every single detail thus contributes to the overall perfection: The color coordination extending from the hands, the jewelling, the time indications and through to the overstitching on the alligator leather strap.

The Kantharos caliber is ingenious in many respects. This self-winding mechanical movement is equipped with the first ever components made from M-15X. This new material has never been before used in the watch industry to make laminated steel and was developed in cooperation with L. Klein SA. It epitomizes the particular attention Christophe Claret devotes to the constant pursuit of innovation – whether in terms of horological complications, machinery or materials. M-15X is a type of steel made using powder metallurgy-based production technology that gives it a homogeneous microstructure and a very fine grain. This material serves to achieve remarkably high-quality mirror-polished finishes.

Housed inside a 45 mm-diameter case in titanium and white gold, the movement was designed, developed and assembled in-house. This extremely complex caliber is not built up layer by layer, as is usually the case, but is fully integrated – a unified approach that enhances finesse, performance and coherent technical and aesthetic appeal. The movement design is a feat in its own right. The platinum rotor boasts increased inertia and the mainspring guarantees a 48-hour power reserve. Clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case back and fitted with 75 jewels – an impressive number that single-handedly symbolizes the complexity of the mechanism – the caliber conceals nothing of its refined finishing. Among its 558 components, the swan-neck regulator spring and oscillating winding rotor feature hand-crafted finishes reflecting the finest haute horlogerie traditions. These include polished internal angles, an extremely demanding technique, and a balance-cock adorned with a brilliant-cut ruby. This wealth of subtle touches offer vivid proof that aesthetic precision pervades even the smallest of components and fully matches the outstanding technical performance of the timepiece. Together, they constitute the inimitable signature touch of the Manufacture Claret.

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On the occasion of the tricentenary of the École Française de Danse, Vacheron Constantin unveils the three first one-of-a-kind creations in its new Métiers d’Art Hommage à l’Art de la Danse collection. These creations from the workshops of the Manufacture revisit the ancestral art of Grand Feu grisaille enamelling to highlight the art of classical ballet through several masterpieces by Edgar Degas. 

In becoming a patron of the Opéra National de Paris in 2007, Vacheron Constantin chose to provide a uniquely inspirational stage for the artisanal traditions of the Fine Watchmaking artistic crafts known in French as Métiers d’Art. This partnership uniting time, art and culture celebrates the values on which the brand has been built since its founding in 1755: supporting creativity, openness to the world, sharing a passion, passing on knowledge and the quest for excellence.

Ballet in particular and opera in general are worlds in which individuals, their talent and their personality set the crowning touch to the choreography of the work being performed. Vacheron Constantin shares with the Opéra National de Paris the art of precision, renewal and wonderment – an art of which the technical and aesthetic mastery is orchestrated by a wealth of men and women exercising numerous skills. In horology as in ballet, accomplishment is above all an intensely human story filled with encounters and with shared and perpetuated skills. Time has no hold on these crafts governed by high demands and constant challenges crystallised by perpetual enhancement, boldness and passion.

Following in the footsteps of the series inspired by the fresco painting by Marc Chagall adorning the ceiling of the Palais Garnier, Vacheron Constantin now provides a further demonstration of its expertise and its mastery of the most ancient decorative arts. The three first unique creations in the new Métiers d’Art Hommage à l’Art de la Danse collection will be presented at the gala evening for the tricentenary of the École Française de Danse, held on April 15th 2013 in the Palais Garnier. They reinterpret certain works by Edgar Degas – and his superlative ability to capture the graceful gestures and poses – through the age-old art of Grand Feu grisaille enamelling.

Métiers d’Art Hommage à l’Art de la Danse 

At the occasion of the 300th anniversary of L’Ecole Française de Danse (French Ballet School), Vacheron Constantin presents three unique pieces inspired by the work of French painter Edgar Degas.

Technical Data

References 86090/000G-9870 – The dance class

86090/000G-9880 – The rehearsal

86090/000G-9881 – Two dancers on stage

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

Caliber 2460 SC, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin

Energy Mechanical hand-wound

Movement diameter 26.20 mm (11’’’ ••• )

Movement thickness 3.60 mm

Jewels 27

Number of components 182

Frequency 4 Hz (28’800 vibrations/hour)

Power reserve approx. 40 hours

Indications Hours, minutes. Center seconds

Case 18 carats white gold . 40 mm diameter, 9.20 mm thickness. Officer and transparent caseback, closed by screws

Water resistance Tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx 30 meters)

Dial 18 carats gold. Grisaille and translucent Grand Feu enamelling. Inspired by the work of French painter Edgar Degas

Strap Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle 18 carats white gold buckle. Polished half Maltese cross

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Type XXII 3880, rose gold version

The emblematic Breguet Type XXII in steel is being enriched this year with an original model in 18-carat rose gold. This fine material highlights the beauty of this unique timepiece, which houses a Breguet chronograph movement with silicon escapement and flat balance spring whose frequency has been raised to 10 Hertz (i.e. 72,000 vibrations per hour), endowing the movement with exceptional regulating power, its chronograph seconds hand effecting a complete rotation in 30 seconds. The timepiece’s start function and readout are thus twice as precise. At the heart of this technical exploit is the use of silicon, resulting in more lightweight mobile components and the avoidance of the lubrication problems generated by high frequencies. The minutes graduation in the form of dashes – one red and the other white – situated on the flange, combined with the numbered seconds graduation also appearing in red and white, serves to establish whether the chronograph counter is in its first (red sectors) or second (white sectors) 30-second revolution. The Breguet Type XXII chronograph naturally features a flyback function, allowing the totaliser to be returned to zero and instantly restarted in one and the same operation. Furthermore, the dial includes a second time-zone indicator along with an aperture for a date calendar. A two-position crown resets the second time-zone indicator by moving the hour hand at centre without affecting the minute hand. With the crown in that position, the date calendar obeys the time of the main time-zone displayed at centre. A 24-hour night-and-day indicator at 3 o’clock tells the wearer whether it is daytime or night time in the area covered by the second time-zone. At nine o’clock, a subdial showing the running seconds making full rotations in 30 seconds completes this truly exceptional timepiece. The chronograph’s brown dial contrasts crisply with the flyback indications in red. The model comes fitted with an integrated brown leather strap.

Technical Specifications

Ref. 3880BR/Z2/9XV

Case in 18-carat rose gold with a finely fluted caseband.

Diameter: 44 mm.

Round-ended horns.

Bezel: Two-way rotating bezel with 60-minute scale. Screw-locked crown.

Water-resistant to: 10 bar (100m).

Dial: Brown signed Breguet. Luminous hands and hour-markers. Chapter ring with Arabic numerals. Red chronograph’s seconds hand on a 30-second basis at the centre. Half-minute totalizer at the centre. 24 hour indicator at 3 o’clock. Second time zone indicator at 6 o’clock with luminous Arabic numerals. Small second on a 30-second basis at 9 o’clock. Date in an aperture at 6 o’clock.

Movement: Self-winding chronograph movement with flyback function and second time-zone. Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 589F. 13^3/4  lines, 27 jewels. 40-hour power-reserve.

Frequency: High frequency silicon escapement  (10Hz). Breguet balance-wheel with regulating screws, silicon balance-spring. 10Hz frequency. Adjusted in 6 positions.

Strap: Leather.

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Along with the superb new dial visuals, the Saxon manufactory’s in-house designers have made a number of more subtle but no less effective changes. The previous versions used a button at 8 o’clock to reset the second hand to zero; the new version replaces the button with a corrector inset in the case. The new timepieces are presented in a 40 mm case both polished and brushed surfaces, either in red gold or stainless steel version, and the matt black Louisiana alligator bracelet attaches the watch perfectly to the wearer’s wrist. Depending on the case material, the fold-over clasp is made of red gold or stainless steel. For a more sporty look the stainless steel versions are also available with a high quality finished stainless steel bracelet.

Also the new interpretation of Senator Panorama Date Moon Phase attracts the observant eye to the lavishly decorated moon phase display: a polished tiny silver moon moves gently on a deep blue disk representing the sky.

The Senator Panorama Date is driven by the Saxon manufactory’s superb automatic calibre 10003, the Senator Panorama Date Moon Phase by the calibre 100-04, both with a 55 hour power reserve. Easily admired through the generous sapphire crystal set in the case back, the calibre 100 features a screw balance with 18 weighted gold-coated screws, twin spring barrels, swan-neck fine adjustment, skeletonized rotor with 21-carat oscillating weight, and the exquisite finishing characteristics of the manufactory.

Technical Specifications

Senator Panorama Date

REF. 100-04-32-15-04 with Louisiana Alligator leather strap black

REF. 100-03-32-42-04 with Louisiana Alligator leather strap black

REF. 100-03-32-42-14 with stainless steel bracelet

Case Ø: 40 mm

Height: 11.52 mm

Material: 18 ct red gold, stainless steel,

Strap: 20/18 mm

Waterproof up to: 5 bar

Glass: sapphire crystal, on both sides anti-reflective

Bottom: sapphire crystal

Dial: Ø display34.8 mm varnish silvergrainé with black Roman numerals

Hands: stainless steel blued

 

Senator Panorama Date Moon Phase

REF. 100-04-32-15-04 with Louisiana Alligator leather strap black

REF. 100-04-32-12-04 with Louisiana Alligator leather strap black

REF. 100-04-32-12-14 with stainless steel bracelet

Case Ø: 40 mm

Height: 11.52 mm

Material: 18 ct red gold

Strap: 20/18 mm

Waterproof up to: 5 bar

Glass: sapphire crystal, on both sides anti-reflective

Bottom: sapphire crystal

Dial: Ø display34.8 mm varnish silvergrainé with black Roman numerals

Hands: stainless steel blued

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The Longines Heritage Military 1938 is available in three versions, all in steel. With its simple design, the model with 3 hands has a 40 mm diameter case and is the closest in design to the original product. The black dial is decorated with twelve white Arabic numerals surrounded by a railway-track minute circle and displays the date at 3 o’clock. With a diameter of 42 mm, the 24-hour version is immediately impressive thanks to the bright red hand for the second time-zone which stands out clearly against the black dial. The 24-hour scale has been added on to the flange around the railway-track minute circle and the date display is at 3 o’clock. Retaining the same sleek lines, the chronograph has a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a date at 6 o’clock and a small seconds at 9 o’clock.

For the Longines’ Heritage collection, these three versions of the Longines Heritage Military 1938 add a new racy design whose aesthetic quality recalls the brand’s long tradition and rich heritage.

The Longines Heritage Military 1938 uses the simple, typical aesthetics based on the design of a military watch produced by Longines in the 1930s. With a diameter of 42 mm and fitted with the automatic calibre L705, this timepiece displays the hours and minutes, a 30 minutes counter at 3 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and the small second at 9 o’clock. Large white Arabic numerals, coated with Super-LumiNova® and a minute circle white as well contrasts with the deep matt black of the dial. A black synthetic strap, stitched in white, adds a final touch to this new model.

The Longines Heritage Military 1938 uses the simple, typical aesthetics based on the design of a military watch produced by Longines in the 1930s. With a diameter of 42 mm and fitted with the automatic calibre L704, this timepiece displays the hours, minutes, seconds and the date at 3 o’clock, as well as a second timezone with a bright red hand. Large white Arabic numerals, coated with Super-LumiNova® and a minute circle white as well contrasts with the deep matt black of the dial. A black synthetic strap, stitched in white, adds a final touch to this new model.

The Longines Heritage Military 1938 uses the simple, typical aesthetics based on the design of a military watch produced by Longines in the 1930s. With a diameter of 40 mm and fitted with the automatic calibre L619, this timepiece displays the hours, minutes, seconds and the date at 3 o’clock. Large white Arabic numerals, coated with Super-LumiNova® and a minute circle white as well contrasts with the deep matt black of the dial. A black synthetic strap, stitched in white, adds a final touch to this new model.

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Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT

The French term “montre d’aéronef” (onboard watch) is an apt name for these instruments specially developed for aviation, a field in which the conditions of use were considerably more demanding than elsewhere and severely tested the mechanisms. The latter had to withstand sudden fluctuations in temperature, magnetic fields given off by the engines and the other flight instruments, occasionally violent vibrations, humidity, as well as changes in atmospheric pressure. Impeccable readability was also a must, and a large matt black dial provided the best possible contrast for the white luminescent-coated hands and other time indications. The latter featured characteristic Arabic numerals and an oversized font. As far as wristwatches were concerned, operating them was considerably facilitated by a distinctive crown enabling gloved handling of the winding and setting functions.

All these requirements were part of the technical specifications developed in the mid-1930s and which have evolved over the years in step with aviation technology. As of 1938, the specifications became known as “Type 20”. These professional watches regarded as survival instruments were regularly checked and maintained. In France, for example, they were supplied to the Air Force, the Naval Aviation and the Test Flight Centre. Today, the Type 20-approved instruments produced at the time by only a handful of stringently selected manufacturers belong to the flight instrument hall of fame.

The new Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT is a worthy successor to the first Zenith aviator’s watches. This generously 48 mm-diameter model echoes all the same distinctive visual features: a wide grooved and screw-locked crown, imposing Arabic numerals entirely made of white Superluminova displaying the time, as well as a large matt black dial – forming a backdrop against which the finely satin-brushed ruthenium black, Superluminova-enhanced hands stand out clearly and visibily. The solid caseback is composed of a medallion struck with the effigy of a Blériot plane and bearing the inscription: “Montre d’Aéronef Type 2 – ZENITH Flying Instruments”. In a nod to the Swiss civil aviation registration system, the letters HB appear on the side of the case, followed by a figure referring to the model’s series number.

Powered by an automatic Zenith Elite 693 movement with a 50-hour power reserve, this steel model with a brown leather strap drives the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock and GMT functions. While modern-day travellers smoothly juggle time zones on their wrist, this was not always the case. It was in the 1820s that the decision was taken to adopt a universal time unit based on a solar day comprising 86,400 seconds. In 1833, the United States became the first nation to establish a time-zone system, and it was not until 1844, at the close of the fiercely contested International Meridian Conference in Washington, that the globe was officially divided into 24 time zones and the location of Greenwich, England was adopted as the zero meridian. This would become the universally recognised Greenwich Mean Time or GMT, the sole international time reference for pilots the world over.

Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron

GMT watches are thus direct heirs to the conquest of the skies, which is why Zenith wished to pay homage through a special GMT series to one of the most talented pilots of his era, who became a legend: the Red Baron. Born Albrecht von Richthofen in May 1892 in what is now Poland, he was fascinated by the budding field of aviation and soon became a true aerobatics artist – a flying ace to whom even pilots of the allied forces paid tribute. His celebrity and his nickname are inseparably bound up with that of the bright red-painted Fokker Triplane Dr.1. Famed for his 80 air combat victories, he was one of the last representatives of the nobler values of such combat: honour, fair play and courage.

It is in memory of this gifted pilot whose name is still cited to this day that Zenith has created a 500-piece limited edition: the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron. Made in black DLC-coated steel and fitted with an overstitched black leather strap, this model is also distinguished by its red GMT marking and by the caseback medallion depicting the Fokker Triplane Dr.1 and bearing the inscription: Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 – ZENITH Flying Instruments. Definitely a collector’s watch.

Annual Calendar and Tourbillon in the spotlight

Three other new models round out the exceptional 2013 Pilot range. The first, the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar, is equipped with a high-precision El Primero 4054 B movement, an evolution of the famous El Primero chronograph (36,000 vibrations per hour) produced in-house by the Manufacture for over 40 years. In addition to the hours, minutes, small seconds and a chronograph with 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock, this model also displays an annual calendar – showing the date, day of the week and month – that requires just one adjustment per year in the transition from February to March. This cleverly conceived and aesthetically restrained complication comprises just nine moving parts, whereas most calendars require 30 or 40. This timepiece is available in a steel or two-tone titanium and rose gold version. In a nod to the Swiss civil aviation registration system, the letters HB appear on the side of the case, followed by a figure referring to the model’s series number.

The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Tourbillon also makes a noteworthy appearance in the collection. This titanium and rose gold tourbillon model features a rotating carriage in the upper left-hand part of the dial, as well as incorporating a date indication. This asymmetrical aesthetic serves to highlight the tourbillon mechanism that is visible through the dial opening, while preserving the slender proportions and elegant lines of this watch. The date driven by a patented system is displayed by means of a disc surrounding the carriage. This model is powered by the automatic El Primero 4035 D chronograph calibre, while the side of the case bears the letters HB followed by a figure referring to the watch’s series number.

Finally, the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 model combines the magic of a history-filled timepiece with a more classic 40 mm size. This unisex model carries all the pilot’s watch signature codes – hours, minutes and small seconds at 9 o’clock – framed by a steel case bearing on its side the HB letters typical of Swiss aviation registration systems, followed by a figure referring to the model’s series number.

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Let us explain the origin of the name 4N.  To be read in its English version 4 numbers, it reflects the 4-digit display of a dozen hours, hours, dozens of minutes and minutes. The said rhythm sequence of the display reveals these original states. The brand identity, summed up in it’s logo, displays a character in counter-form, beneath a regular vertical sequence.

Model

The 4N-MVT01/D01 Model is the first of the mark. It’s embodied in a mouvement of manufacture, defined by a mechanical complication with manual assembly and a 12-hour digital display. It is based on an intelligent configuration of intermittent rotating discs. Three subgroups of discs, , kept in cage structures, light up to reveal the time according to a jumping display as the minutes pass (4 discs for the hour, 5 for the minutes, and 1 for the ten minutes). The device uses a system of jump by constant force guaranteeing a minimum expenditure of energy whatever the degree of movement.

The patented model solves delicate technical issues. The one size of the figures (5.5 mm) leads to a demanding implementation, based on a totally manual manufacturing process. The movement, stems from a complex setting of the kinematic discs, to solve problems of balance, inertia, and friction for optimum movement and a minimum expenditure of energy.
This model is available in 18K white gold, titanium or platinum. The bracelet which may be selected from a range of high-quality materials, is mounted on the box by an automatic strap system and allows for lengthening as required. The model is also equipped with a time setting where it is easy to adjust the hour digits independently of the minutes.

The model 4N-MVT01/D01  is available for sale and visible on the stand 4N (Palace – Watch Gallery Stand P24) at the BASELWORLD 2013.

APRP, a world-renowned partnership

The partnership with the manufacturer Renaud and Papi (Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi)  clearly and comfortably places 4N in the contemporary Haute Horlogerie.

The innovative spirit of the manufacture, its production methods, among the most advanced, as well as its perfect mastery of technology have developed for it, over the years, an unparalleled reputation that has attracted the most prestigious watchmakers. APRP puts its know-how and technical expertise at the service of 4N, offering the assurance of constant and sustainable guaranteed services.

The uniqueness of APRP, the personality of its founders and it’s level of requirements, have led to a highly qualified team with which 4N is proud to work.

Technical Specifications

Jumping minutes and hours
Digital display by discs
Double barrel with simultaneous transmission stop-work
Screw balance: 9.12mm
Breguet spiral
Rhythm: 21 000 Alt/hour
514 components
78 rubies
237-hour power reserve (10 days)
Finish: all parts are hand-decorated

Limited edition 16 pieces

Retail price : white gold version – 150 000 € Excluding Taxes

PINGDUBAI.COM had an interview with 4N Owner & Designer Francois Quentin to be published as a second story from our special 4N Basel World 2013 video.

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With its dual propellers and twin silver cylinders mounted on sleek outrigger landing gear, MusicMachine looks like a spaceship hailing from a galaxy far, far away.

Each of the cylinders on MusicMachine plays three tunes, all personally selected by MB&F founder and creative director, Maximilian Büsser. On the left, “may the Force be with you” with the ‘Star Wars’ theme, ‘Imperial March’ from ‘The Empire Strikes Back’, and the theme from ‘Star Trek’. Back on earth, the right cylinder plays Pink Floyd’s ‘Another Brick in the Wall’, Deep Purple’s ‘Smoke on the Water’ and ’John Lennon’s ‘Imagine’ – all tunes synonymous with MB&F’s radical, nonconformist attitude.

“Like many kids, saving the world was my full time job when I was a boy,” says Büsser. “For MusicMachine, I delved into my childhood dreams and fantasies inspired by heroes such as Luke Skywalker and Captain James T. Kirk.”

One of the biggest challenges for REUGE was respecting the mechanical symmetry of MB&F’s design, and it meant breaking with a few music box conventions to achieve it. MusicMachine actually has two independent movements, each comprising: winding propeller; mainspring barrel (looking like a piston under the propeller); horizontal cylinder with pins creating three melodies; and vertical comb with individual hand-tuned teeth sounding each note.

When music is playing, the speed that the cylinder unwinds at is governed by an air regulator in the form of a circular fan outside each propeller-topped, piston-shaped mainspring barrel.

While it would have been much easier to duplicate the two movements and just change the melodies, MB&F’s original concept called for perfect symmetry and if the movements were identical, the comb on one cylinder would not be on the outside. So REUGE took the unprecedented step of configuring the two movements as mirror images of one another, which meant completely inverting the design of the movement components and architecture.

The end result is a visual and acoustic tour de force that even sci-fi fan Büsser finds hard to believe: “REUGE is the Jedi master of music boxes. It is incredible how REUGE has been able to turn our design into reality. And that’s not even mentioning how good it sounds!”

REUGE CEO Kurt Kupper is equally delighted with the outcome of the collaboration: “MB&F came to us with this radical concept and we have shown that, when it comes to high-end music boxes, REUGE will make dreams come true.”

MusicMachine: Awe-inspiring to look at, beautiful to listen to… The Force is strong with this one.

MusicMachine is a limited edition of 66 pieces: 33 pieces in white and 33 pieces in black (the latter for those with a preference for ‘the dark side’).

MusicMachine – a music box not just for the 21st century, but the 25th century!

Mechanical Music boxes produce melodies by way of tuned teeth on a steel comb being plucked by pins on a revolving cylinder. Music box movements share many similarities with their horological counterparts, both technically and aesthetically: Energy derived from a coiled spring is transferred by a gear train and the unwinding speed is carefully regulated. High-end music box components are even finely finished similar to high-end watch movements.

No wonder, then, that since music boxes first appeared in the early 19th century, Switzerland, the home of fine watchmaking, became the hub of high-quality music box production. In 1865, Charles Reuge was a pioneer of the genre when he set up his first musical pocket-watch shop in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland. Nearly 150 years on, and REUGE is the premier manufacturer of high-end music boxes on the planet and is still based in Sainte-Croix.

While REUGE’s collection has since grown to offer both quintessentially classical pieces and contemporary designs – including a service for specially-commissioned bespoke pieces – with MusicMachine, REUGE has pushed the frontiers of music box design: MusicMachine belongs more to the 25th century than the 21st!

Sci-fi design

REUGE created MusicMachine based on a futuristic spaceship design proposed by MB&F whose founder, Maximilian Büsser, is a keen fan of all the great sci-fi film and TV series. In collaboration with ECAL design graduate Xin Wang, MB&F developed a concept that cleverly incorporated all the essential music box features – musically-tuned combs, pinned cylinders, winding mechanisms, mainspring barrels, regulators and acoustically-optimised case – while still managing to make it look like a streamlined, hypersonic spaceship.

The melodies

MusicMachine doesn’t just look like something from a science fiction film; three of the melodies have been beamed directly from sci-fi classics.

On the left cylinder, MusicMachine is armed with the theme from ‘Star Trek’ by Jerry Goldsmith, the theme from ‘Star Wars’ by John Williams and ‘Imperial March’ from ‘The Empire Strikes Back’, also by cinematic music maestro John Williams. While the first two are stirring anthems evoking heroism and adventure, the latter will have you battening down the hatches and raising the shields as it signals the imminent arrival of the villainous Darth Vader.

But MB&F is much more than sci-fi, their creations are edgy and iconoclastic – certainly relative to the rest of the high-end watch world – and this rock ‘n’ roll attitude is neatly conjured in the three melodies contained on the right cylinder: John Lennon’s classic anti-war anthem ‘Imagine’, Deep Purple’s riff-tastic ‘Smoke on the Water’ and Pink Floyd’s memorable social commentary tune ‘Another Brick in the Wall’.

Again Büsser drew on his youth when choosing these, and the selection was a daunting task. “In addition to the science fiction themes, I wanted to include three songs that were important to me during the first 20 years of my life,” he says. “From a long list, I managed to whittle it down to three, but it was quite an ordeal!”

Faithfully creating music… mechanically

Once MB&F had confirmed the melodies, it was over to REUGE to create them mechanically, a challenge that REUGE took in its stride. Firstly, a REUGE musician examined the pieces of music and identified the most recognisable passages from each. The musician then set about recreating these passages for the music box, keeping in mind that one cylinder would contain the three rock melodies, and the other cylinder would have the three sci-fi inspired melodies, and that each cylinder’s pins would pluck one 72-note comb.
Working out these two groups of three arrangements, each one limited to between 25 and 45 seconds, and the multitude of notes that these entail (some notes are used by all three melodies; some notes are exclusive to just one melody) represents a considerable technical and artistic achievement in which the musician’s brain, sense of expression and emotional dexterity top any computer.

The combs

The two vertical combs look like air vent grills on either side of the vessel’s main body. Each comb contains the bespoke selection of 72 notes chosen by the REUGE musician in accordance with the three melodies that cylinder will play. Each comb forms a unique pair with its corresponding cylinder; neither can play properly without the other.

The combs are hand-tuned from a unique steel alloy specifically selected for its acoustic impact. For bass notes, the weight of the tooth is extended at the back by the traditional method of adding lead. A machine then tests the frequency of each tooth and minute amounts of material are removed to accurately tune each note. The hand-operated tools that REUGE uses in this process have all been developed in-house.

Tiny transparent, synthetic feathers are added behind the bass note teeth, acting as dampers so that the note resonates optimally. The comb is finally attached to a brass ‘vibration plate’ passing through the main hull, with six heat-blued screws. The vibration plate transfers the sound to the case, which in turn amplifies the sound even more. Once the comb is fitted, the musician’s ear is required again for the final fine-tune!

The cylinders

The beautifully hand-finished cylinders gleam like a pair of imposing reactors atop MusicMachine’s main hull. The cylinders essentially contain ‘the scores’ of the melodies, with as many as 1,400 precision-placed pins that pluck the teeth of the comb as the cylinder revolves. The REUGE musician determines precisely where to place every single pin. The pins are shaved then polished to ensure uniformity of length. Finally a special hot resin is applied inside the cylinder, which, when hardened, rigidly fixes the pins to maximise sound quality.

Once one melody is played, the cylinder moves slightly along its long axis, and this change of position aligns the right pins with the right teeth to play the next melody. Each melody lasts approximately 35 seconds and corresponds to one complete revolution of the cylinder. The cylinders are linked via visible gear trains to MusicMachine’s rear engine-room.

Fan regulators

Either side of the propeller-like winding levers, are distinctive vertical circular panels. While these look as though they may be radar dishes to navigate an asteroid field or force field generating devices to repel enemy proton torpedoes, they are actually the cylinder speed regulators. When fully wound, the main springs tend to turn the cylinders faster than when nearly unwound. To compensate, these circular fan air regulators provide exponentially more resistance when rotating faster than slower, allowing for a constant revolution (a similar system is found in many minute repeater watches).

Fuselage, struts, landing pods and landing platform

Crafted in white or black lacquered walnut, MusicMachine’s sleek fuselage amplifies sound transmitted from the brass vibration plate centrally housed within the case. This plate also conducts the vibrations along the curved, lateral struts and outrigger-style landing pods – in bead-blasted, anodised aluminium (black matte-anodised for the black version) – which in turn carry the vibrations down to MusicMachine’s landing platform. This lacquered timber platform not only further amplifies the enchanting melodies, but also showcases the spacecraft’s aesthetic beauty.

Technical specifications

MusicMachine is a limited edition of 66 pieces: 33 pieces in white and 33 pieces in black.

Case and frame
Main body: Walnut sound amplification chamber; white or black piano lacquered (white lacquer UV resistant)
Outriggers: Bead-blasted and anodised aluminium; black matte-anodised for black version
Dimensions: 395mm wide x 475mm long x 165mm high; total weight: 2.97kg
Acoustically-enhancing platform: white or black lacquered

Movement and finishing
MusicMachine features two 3.72 movements (3 refers to number of melodies on each cylinder; 72 refers to number of notes on each comb); one movement is ‘right’ configured; one movement is ‘left’ configured (they rotate in opposite directions)

Mainplate: nickel-plated brass, decorated with Côtes de Genève. The mainplate holds both movements; each movement includes a mainspring, cylinder, comb and regulator

Mainsprings:  Wound via propellers
Barrels: Stainless steel; each with 6 heat-blued screws on top; grooved ‘piston’ sides Regulator: fan in stainless steel

Cylinders: brass
Start/stop and continue functions
Cylinder supports: Nickel-plated brass
One melody = one revolution of the cylinder
Three melodies per cylinder
Length of each melody: 35 seconds
Power reserve per cylinder: 15 minutes
Pins hand-applied and hand-polished
Length of pins: 1mm; diameter of pins: 0.3mm
Pins per right cylinder: 1,279; pins per left cylinder: 1,399

Combs: steel alloy and lead; 72 teeth per comb; each comb attached to brass vibration plate by six heat-blued steel screws

Melodies
Right cylinder – extracts from:
‘Another Brick in the Wall’ (1979) by Roger Waters and originally performed by Pink Floyd
‘Smoke on the Water’ (1973) written and originally performed by Deep Purple
‘Imagine’ (1971) written and originally performed by John Lennon
Left cylinder – extracts from:
‘Star Wars’ (1977) main title by John Williams
‘Imperial March’ (1980) by John Williams
‘Star Trek’ (1979) main title by Jerry Goldsmith

PINGDUBAI.COM had an interview with CEO Maximilian Büsser to be published as a second story from our special MB&F Basel World 2013.

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